RØDGRØD MED FLØDE: DANISH COOKED RED BERRIES AND CREAM

Ask any Dane what they think of when you say summer, and they will almost certainly respond with strawberries. Ask them about Danish summer desserts, and it will be Rødgrød med Fløde, a beloved, slightly thickened berry soup, served with a decadent amount of loose heavy cream.


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STRAWBERRIES WITH SUGAR AND ROSEWATER

Every season we do a vote on the Facebook page for people's favorite ingredient; I then create a simple recipe with the winning ingredient. Strawberries won in the Spring of 2016. Inspired by my time cooking at Boulettes Larder, with chef Amaryll Schwertner, I created this super simple, delightful recipe. Strawberries macerated with sugar and rosewater make the perfect accompaniment and drizzling syrup for vanilla ice cream, cakes, or unsweetened yogurt throughout the late spring and summer.


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ARMIDA’S STICKY TOMATO FRITTATA

Armida had all sorts of tomatoes growing in her garden, and combined them with celery leaves to create earthy-sweet dishes. This frittata (a crustless Italian quiche) pays homage to these flavors, and to the prevalence of pecorino (sheep’s milk) cheese) in the hills of Lunigiana. To make the frittata, I slowly dry oiled, cut tomatoes; this is lovely to do under a hot summer sun, but is also easily accomplished in a low-temperature oven. The rich and sticky tomatoes are an integral part of the frittata, but also make for a delicious addition or garnish to many other dishes.


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ROASTED APPLES WITH HAZELNUT, BITTER CHOCOLATE, AND LEMON ZEST

These are the most delicious roasted apples I have eaten, with the bitter chocolate (typical of Northern Italy) and lemon zest adding depth and brightness. I highly recommend using a chocolate with 80 percent cocoa content for this recipe, and a tart fruit, such as the Granny Smith.


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CHARD-SESAME BALLS WITH RED ONION JAM

Although Carluccia was not accustomed to cooking in the early afternoon, when I went to say good-bye she pulled these emerald-green polpette di bietola (chard balls) piping hot from her oven. Out came some Tropean red onion marmellata (jam) and a fizzy glass of the family’s red wine to accompany them. It was the perfect, verdant last treat with Carluccia, and she sent me off with an extra paper bag filled with them for the long plane ride home.


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PLUM ALMOND TART

While this tart is at its most beautiful when made with susine (dark purple oblong prune plums), other plums and stone fruits will also work well here. Make sure that the fruits are ripe—they will melt down beautifully when baked, releasing their juicy syrup.


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GNOCCHI WITH TOMATO-BEEF RAGU

The airy flesh of the ubiquitous russet potato makes it the perfect choice for gnocchi. To create light, pillowy gnocchi, make sure that your dough is neither too wet nor overworked. Armida uses the fine markings of the back of her cheese grater to mark the gnocchi; I recommend using the fine side of a box grater to do this, or forming the gnocchi and running them along a wire whisk to mark them. The gnocchi are wonderful with Armida’s easy, rich ragu. They are also delicious with a simpler dressing of melted butter and grated cheese.


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THE IDA COOKIE

I have been thinking a lot about remembering, and how things are distilled down into lasting memories. The Ida Cookies got me thinking about this, as does the closing of the year, which inevitably involves assessing the passing year’s events: What were the joys and losses experienced? How have we cared for one another? What […]


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PERSIMMON-CINNAMON ICE CREAM

This recipe is a shockingly simple persimmon-cinnamon ice cream, perfect for the late autumn and a wonderful accompaniment to Thanksgiving dessert (especially nut-based ones). Inspired by Silvana, a grandmother I cooked with in the Marche region of Italy, who grew the most luscious persimmons I have ever tasted.


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BRAISED PIGS FEET IN SOY-CARAMEL SAUCE

These succulent braised pigs feet were a regular meal in Mrs. Lee Sin's house. Naturally high in collagen and gelatin, they also nourished her family, keeping their digestion and joints healthy. The pigs feet were always served with perfectly steamed white rice, and can be garnished with cilantro.


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